Taking over the former home of a Michelin-starred restaurant is a bold move, but Duchy had an auspicious head start. Opened in May 2025 by Alex Grant and chef Simon Shand, who met at Leroy and helped it retain its Michelin star for three consecutive years, this Shoreditch restaurant is the pair’s chance to do things their way. The vinyl-lined room and open kitchen will feel familiar to Leroy regulars, but the menu has a new identity.

Inspired by the historic Duchy of Savoy, which straddled parts of modern-day France and Italy, the cooking brings together French technique, northern Italian influences and seasonal British produce. With Leroy’s legacy to live up to and its own personality to establish, we went to see whether Duchy can make a name for itself.

What’s the vibe like?

Duchy feels like a laid-back Shoreditch wine bar that happens to take its food seriously. Inside, you’ll find sage-green banquettes, wooden chairs, a marble-topped counter and a buzzy open kitchen, with wine bottles scattered all around. A collection of around 200 vinyl records by the entrance supplies the soundtrack, giving the room a lived-in, slightly retro feel without sacrificing its polish.

It’s sociable and buzzy, with tables close enough to feel part of the action, counter seats for watching the chefs at work and a crowd that’s definitely wine-literate. Most definitely date-night material – jazzy and welcoming, with knowledgeable staff and a relaxed approach.

And what’s on the menu?

A triumphant procession of dishes celebrating the best of British produce, French technique and Italian indulgence. The lovely team started us off with a crostini topped with Calabrian anchovies, salted butter and marjoram that was tiny in size but really packed a salty punch. Amuse-bouche gobbled, onto the starters.

The rocket salad with Roquefort and Kentish strawberries feels like a humble plate but it’s truthfully a brilliant combination. Proof that opposites not only attract, but make for a rather happy marriage on a plate.

Now, the fried oysters. In all honesty, we’re not particularly fond of oysters, but these sounded tempting enough to give them a go, and that turned out to be a rather inspired decision. Enveloped in a generous, golden batter, they were wonderfully creamy, a far cry from the slippery, snot-like texture that’s notoriously off-putting. Even the grilled leeks got our seal of approval: delicately charred and, crucially, without any of those limp, stringy strands that have you wrestling with your cutlery. We’re still not rushing to order a plate of raw oysters, but fried? Give us a KFC bucket of them, please.

With one vegetarian among us, the pumpkin tagliolini was an easy pick. We haven’t forgotten the pasta at Nina, which set a rather ridiculous benchmark for silky, sauce-drenched tomato tagliolini, but Duchy’s was giving it a serious run for its money with this autumnal version. We mopped it all up.

The cod was a change of pace – a much lighter meal, with a flaky piece of fish hiding underneath the mussels and the foamy Vadouvan sauce. Vadouvan, the French take on an Indian spice blend, brings plenty of warmth and fragrance without overpowering the delicate fish. Homely and comforting French cooking at its best.

What about desserts?

We openly judge anyone who spots a Basque cheesecake on the menu and looks away. That’s criminal. We’ve eaten our way through a fair few around London lately, given how popular this bouncy beauty has become, and Duchy’s pistachio version is heavenly. The texture was satisfyingly creamy, and it tasted of actual pistachio, not some overpowering artificial nonsense. Please order it.

The chocolate mousse was fabulous, too, if you prefer something sweeter and more intense. A proper hit of dark chocolate, with a creamy, ridiculously smooth texture. The Picon gelato on top was the final flourish.

Verdict

We know we’re singing Duchy’s praises here, but it stems from genuine admiration for a seriously creative menu that delivers, and lovely staff who make you feel welcome and relaxed. Having visited a few too-cool-for-school restaurants recently, Duchy feels like a breath of fresh air. It has all the hallmarks of a hip Shoreditch restaurant, without the attitude that can sometimes come with it.

We were drooling over the menu, and choosing what to order was less a matter of deciding what sounded good than trying to work out what we could possibly leave off. The food is inventive and full of character, so overordering is practically inevitable. Food obsessives will feel right at home, but you don’t need to know your bottarga from your beurre blanc to love this place. One visit should do the trick.

Key details

Address: 18 Phipp Street, London, England, EC2A 4NU

Website: www.duchyrestaurant.com

Socials: @duchy.restaurant

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