There’s a new name to know if you work around the City and fancy trying something temptingly different for lunch or dinner. Bangkok Mama opened at Thai Square Minories in August this year, giving the established Thai restaurant group a new concept built around sourdough pizzas topped with Thai-inspired flavours (we’ll give you a minute to process this).

That’s right – Thai Square’s new sourdough pizza concept puts a Bangkok spin on the Italian classic, and it’s very much unabashed about it. We tried the curries-on-crust idea to see which dishes are worth ordering.

What’s the vibe like?

Bangkok Mama brings a new concept to Thai Square Minories, with the original Thai restaurant on the ground floor and its sourdough pizza spin-off downstairs. The playful branding sets the tone, while colourful interiors and casual seating make it a good shout for a laid-back lunch or dinner with friends. It’s a more informal affair than the main restaurant, with a menu designed around sharing pizzas and sides, and an imposing pizza oven that bodes well for the pizzas to come. Service was friendly when we visited, although the room was fairly quiet, so we didn’t get to experience it at its liveliest (it was a Tuesday after all).

And what’s on the menu?

Thai pizzas aplenty. There’s a MAMArgherita for traditionalists, Green Curry Pesto with coconut milk, mushrooms and basil, and Smoky Satay Chicken with turmeric-marinated chicken and peanut sauce. For a more adventurous option, the Gang Panang takes its cues from the rich Thai curry, while the Tom Yum Goong Crisis combines prawns, mushrooms, roasted chilli oil, mozzarella and coriander.

There are salads and smaller bites on the menu, too, including a spicy green apple salad with cashews and coconut flakes, edamame tossed in sesame oil, and seasoned Zaab Fries.

So, how was the food?

Starters

We kicked things off with Calamari Fritti and Cheesy Golden Triangles, and it was the latter that won us over. Filled with cheesy mashed potato, carrot and sweetcorn, these little parcels have a crisp wrapper and a soft, comforting centre. The calamari, meanwhile, was a slight let-down: the batter had the makings of a satisfying crunch, but the squid was tough and far from pleasant to chew. Thankfully, a dunk in Mama Mayo helped matters, adding a welcome hit of flavour, if not quite saving the dish.

Both starters were on the fast-food side, which may not necessarily be what you expect when you’re already gearing up for a massive pizza. We’d probably be selective about ordering sides next time or order something fresher and lighter.

Mains

Bangkok Mama is all about the mains. There are a lot of eye-catching options, but we opted for the Pina Paradiso and Bangkok Piccante.

The Bangkok Piccante takes inspiration from pad kra pao, using savoury soy sauce, bird’s eye chillies, onion, pepper and crispy basil. It doesn’t pack the same punch as the red curry pizza when it comes to depth and richness of flavour but it totally does what it says on the tin: hits you with a lovely spice kick.

Topped with red curry, caramelised pineapple, coconut milk, cherry tomato, lychee, pepper and basil, the Pina Paradiso rich, saucy topping that gives the pizza plenty of flavour. The red curry was particularly lovely, bringing a depth and warmth that worked well with the sweeter ingredients. It’s a bold combination (to say the least, for all the pineapple-on-pizza naysayers), but one that did convince us.

Desserts

The dessert menu straddles familiar favourites and Thai-inspired twists, from fried Tiramisu Gelato (puzzling, right!) to Thai Affogato, which pairs vanilla ice cream with a shot of fragrant Thai tea.

We tried the Fried Tiramisu Gelato, which turned out to be a pleasant surprise. By this point, we were ready to call time on deep-fried food, but this was a more considered take on the format than we’d expected. The familiar layers of tiramisu came through beautifully, from the bitterness of the coffee to the creamy sweetness of the filling, all wrapped in a crisp, moreish coating. An indulgent end to the meal, and one we’d happily order again.

If you’ve already made short work of the pizza and sides, the Mango Chilli Sorbet is a lighter way to finish. It’s fruity and refreshing, with a subtle chilli note. Chilli fans might wish for a stronger kick, but it’s a palate-cleansing option after a fairly hearty meal.

The verdict

Thai curry and sourdough pizza might sound like an unlikely pairing, but Bangkok Mama makes a convincing case for breaking with tradition. The Pina Paradiso was the standout of our meal, delivering a combination that was far more nuanced than the novelty might suggest.

The same can’t be said for everything on the menu. Still, the more successful dishes show what Bangkok Mama is aiming for: Thai flavours with enough character to stand up to a pizza base.

We’d recommend a visit if you’re bored of the usual pizza repertoire in London. And if pineapple on pizza is still a point of contention, perhaps red curry and coconut milk are the unlikely combination that finally wins you over.

Key details

Address: Bangkok Mama at Thai Square Minories 136–138 Minories, London EC3N 1NT

Website: bangkokmama.pizza

Socials: @bangkokmama.pizza

Other reviews

You’re in for a feast at 64 Old Compton Street, where mountains of buttery pasta abound

Nettle is joyously championing nature’s best with whole-produce cooking

Stefania is old-school Italian cooking, dolled up for Notting Hill